Backstage Report: Karen Walker Fall 2012
The Inspiration: "Karen wanted the girls to have a bit of an edge this season," confides Jenna Menard, Clinique's Global Colour Artist, who was tasked with creating the face for this year's show. "The collection was based on meshing together the Edwardian age with the 1960s, so the makeup had to feel different but wearable." Read on to find out how Menard used Clinique's good-girl goodies to give these lovely ladies a slightly steely makeover.
Brows: "This look is anchored in having a strong brow," explains Mendard. "I used Brow Shapers that were one shade darker than the girls' natural hues to ensure that the brows were defined, not distracting."
Lids: "To give the eyes a bit of pop, it's essential to build the right kind of contour gradually," she notes. To do this, Menard recommends laying a large eyeshadow brush flat against the lower curve of the brow bone and only applying shadow to the natural crease. "For realistic contouring, you only want to add color to the indentations that you actually see, not the ones you'd like to be there," she adds.
Eyeliner: "The key to simplifying eyeliner is to paint a straight line from the inner corner of the eye to the outer cornerand nothing else," Menard explains. "I used the Quicklinker for Eyes Intense in Intense Charcoal in the waterline and liquid liner along the lash line to add dimension."
Skin: After models were prepped with Clinique's staple moisturizer (the Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion), Menard used a yet-to-be-released mattifying foundation (check shelves in May 2012) and All About Eyes Concealer to create an epheral canvas for the rest of the makeup. "When you're wearing bolder looks, it's important to keep the skin soft, so that the end effect isn't too hard," Menard says.
Cheeks: For vampy cheekbones, "I used Colour Surge Eye Shadow Duo in Butter Pecan," she continues. "You can use shadows like blushes to contour the face, and when you use the same hues on your eyes and cheeks, the continuity of the palette makes the look more believable."
Lips: "Most people try foundations to sample the nude lip trend, only to find out that it will lead to dryness and flakes," warns Menard. "I used a nude Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm to wipe out the natural tint of the lips but still give the pout that fleshy feeling. In general, keeping tougher makeup feminine is easy if you soften the lashes, lips, and skin and define the eyes and brows."
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