Backstage Report: Derek Lam
The Inspiration: The hair and makeup team was working on "a girl from an all-girl school, who's kind of twisted, but intellectual and fun. She's definitely well-bred, but a little rebellious," said Orlando Pita, working on the slightly undone, '60s-style bouffant on behalf of T3 and Phyto. "She's a naughty student," added Estée Lauder's Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux.
Makeup: Pecheux used his fingers to apply a bit of Invisible Fluid Makeup, a foundation launching in March. Brown shadow was used to follow the natural oval shape of the eye, since "making it pointy is too grown-up, and round is very childish." Pecheux had a hand in developing the brand's Sumptuous Two-Tone Eye-Opening Mascara, for sale this April, a product he adores since it was built specifically around how he likes to use mascara. "I always prefer black on top since it lifts the eye, and brown on bottom since it brings it down." Under the eye, black liner was used to draw small faux lashes to contribute to the "naughty look and girly feel." The perfect tulip lip color was achieved by blending two Pure Color lipsticks (Crystal Pink and Vanilla Truffle). Finally, a little bit of white eye shadow is placed on the middle of the lips to mattify and lighten the shade.
Hair: Pita did two undone bouffant looks, with hair tucked up for day and left out as a low ponytail for night. Why the reversal to the norm, with evening hair typically up? "It's good to have a contrast sometimes. She's not a bad girl all the time," said Pita. Hair was blown dry first with Phyto's volumizing mousse. Models without natural texture and movement to the hair were given some, courtesy of the clamp-less, T3 SinglePass Whirl curling iron. To get the gorgeously full style, tease at roots and pull back. Pita used four large bobby pins, criss-crossed, to tuck hair under into the faux-bob. He continued on with hairpins, pushing them in until satisfied with the look.
RB Insider Tip: Don't let your blush age you! Pecheux purposefully puts the blush under the cheekbones, contouring it slightly. "Blush on the apple of the cheek is very girly. Lower makes it look not so teenager." Looking young is good, but not able to get into R-rated movies? Not so much.
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