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marc by marc jacobs spring 2012 makeup

Elizabeth Griffin/Hearst

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1. Blushing Beauty.

"Marc wanted them to look healthy and pretty, like how we'd all like to look in the morning," explained Shiseido makeup artist Dick Page about this season's Marc by Marc girl. "It's Pretty 101." He has the models smile when applying blush because he "wants it to land somewhere they're animated." The color, selected from a palette of four based on the girl's skin tone, starts on the apple of the cheek and moves out. "They're never smiling out there," he said, nodding toward the runway, "but I want to make sure the blush gives some movement."

2. Get Glossy.

Page did a glossy eyelid to "really set off the lashes", using a Shiseido eye gloss not available stateside; he suggested the brand's Benefiance Lip Treatment for a similar effect. "Get something that's glycerine based and combine it with a cream eye shadow," he said. And mascara? "I just kind of slap it on. When it looks like something, it's done." Easy enough.

3. Lip Service.

"The collection's sporty, so we wanted the look very natural," Page said about the rosy lip color he used. Shiseido Perfect Rouge RD734 'Roseate' was the shade of choice, and he applied it with his finger to make sure it was well blended and ultra-natural.

4. Flip & Clip.

"It's funny to describe," Redken's Guido Palau said about the 'do he did for Marc. "It's half a ponytail, but half not a ponytail." Pre-any type of pony, he blew out strands with Redken Satin Wear. Hair was gathered into a ponytail and then lifted up from the base and pinned to the scalp with a flat Goody pin about an inch above the ponytail holder. Palau then pulled the hair back down and pinned it with a second clip under the base. "You flip it, and clip it."

5. Nailing the Nails.

"Marc has a great eye and vision and he's very specific about what he likes. I'll usually give him 8, 9, 10 looks until he's happy," said Elisa Ferri, lead nail tech for Zoya. Turns out Mr. Jacobs liked Olivia, "a seashell shade, a little pink, a little yellow" with a matte top coat created just for the show. "I told Zoya Marc likes a satin finish and asked them to make one for me to present to him," said Ferri. Sounds like he approved. "The end result was like a velvet seashell."

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