Runway the "Real" Way: Jason Wu Spring 2012

1. Get a clean slate.

To thoroughly remove the makeup previously applied to the models' mugs, Riley mixes one pump of Good Genes (a corrective serum with lactic acid) with either a Charisma Crème cleanser (if skin is dry) or Ceramic Slip face wash (if epidermis is oily). "What most people don't realize is that cleanser quickly gets rid of makeup and the surface layer of oil," explains the Sunday Riley of Sunday Riley skincare, "But if you mix it with a lactic acid product and let it sit for a minute, then it will go deeper and eat away at the glue that holds the dead skins cells together."

2. Deflate your face.

For exhausted models, Riley relies on this insider tip: "Use Start Over eye cream," she says, "It's an antioxidant de-puffing formula that contains MTC (a chemical similar to caffeine but less irritating), lemongrass, vitamin C and lemon extract. You can absolutely use eye cream all over your face—it works like a natural diuretic."

3. Skip the mascara.

After applying a concealer, a light foundation, brushing your eyebrows and curling your eyelashes, Diane Kendal, an expert makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics, suggests drawing a very thin border of black cream eyeliner close to your lashes so that it's not noticeable, but still makes your peepers pop. "I am not using mascara," she states, "Because that makes it look more normal; not doing it makes it modern. I brushes the eyeliner into the lashes to give them a bit of definition."

4. Pop it like it's hot.

To create the model's traffic-stopping ruby lips, Kendal traced their puckers with a matte red lip liner and then filled it in with MAC Cosmetic's Scarlet lipstick (debuting this spring) using a brush. "I topped it with MAC Cosmetics Neo-Orange Pigment powder to give it a vibrant look," she says. "The secret here is this powder because it goes with the Pop Art inspiration for the collection."

5. Pinned to perfection.

The models' chic chignons are comprised of bobby pins topped with little black feathers. "It's like [she imitates a painter's strokes] an artistic thing," explains hair guru Odile Gilbert for Kérastase. "Use your imagination. It's a bit boyish, but feminine at the same time—a touch of punk mixed with 1950s [style] and couture." Try the look at home using hairspray and mouse to create texture, then Gilbert suggests taking a ton of barrettes and clipping them all over.

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