Make no mistake, brows are definitely getting bigger but not bushy (a la the brows that made Brooke Shields famous). "Today's fuller brow is more tailored like Camilla Belle's," says celebrity makeup artist, Brett Freedman, who has worked on faces like Vanessa Hudgens and Jessica Biel. Below, Freedman's dos and don'ts to giving yourself a full brow that wows this season.
When tweezing, it's best to go to a pro first to get the "alpha" shape of your brows and maintain from there. Keep the shape by tweezing a few hairs every few days (rather than a big pluck session once a week). This will also make it easier to see which hairs need to be plucked as they grow in. If you're unsure, stick to tweezing under the arch and the few "cobweb hairs" that grow from the tail of the brow to your temple.
Slowly build your brow color. Start by using a brow pencil or powder behind existing hairs. Once you have the base you can nudge the shape out to be a little more dramatic. Fill in sparse areas, add girth to the top or bottom of the brow, and expand the tail using small, feathery strokes. When using a pencil, resist pressing too hard (doing so will make your brows look waxy) and with powder, tap off excess before pressing to your brow.
If you've over plucked, step away from the tweezer! Your brows should be a no touch zone for two weeks so that they can grow back in. As they grow in, use a pencil or powder that is one shade lighter than your brow color. Start by filling in behind the existing hairs then build and expand to the area you've over plucked.
Your brow shape should be determined by your face shape. For rounder faces (like Rachel Bilson), keep brows on the full side and the tail of the brows on the shorter side. If you have a rectangle face (like Blake Lively), the key is to keep the angles of your brows soft. Keep them tidy but defined with a high arch to avoid roundness. For longer, thin faces (like Kristen Stewart), keep your brow subtle by making sure they aren't too dark. Use a lighter pencil to fill in your shape (Freedman recommends Vanitymark's Ultra Brow Pencil, $16) so the hairs are darker than the shade you are enhancing them with. Heart shaped faces (like Christina Aguilera) should have a full shape with shorter tails.