All-Natural Makeup

The promise: Chemical-shunning makeup has hit the big time. From supermarkets to Saks, new products brim with ingredients only (or mostly) from nature, not the lab. Many claim skin-nourishing properties that are comparable or superior to their chemical counterparts.

The reality: Natural ingredients can be good for skin. Plant oils and shea and cocoa butters make fantastic moisturizers, Fredric Brandt, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City and Miami, says. Aloe and chamomile are soothing. And minerals have become the darlings of new makeup lines for sensitive skin. Just as important as what the natural formulas contain is what they leave out: Ideally, it's a long list of potential irritants, including synthetic fragrance compounds and dyes that can aggravate sensitive skin, and parabens, which are not as allergenic as once thought, though companies are using both natural and synthetic substitutions instead. Try parabens-free Almay Pure Blends Makeup ($14, drugstores). Some powdered mineral makeup, like Jane Iredale Amazing Base Loose Minerals SPF 20 ($42, janeiredaledirect.com), doesn't require a preservative at all. "If the formula doesn't contain water, no preservatives are necessary," Perry Romanowski, an independent cosmetics chemist, explains. (Consider tossing it if moisture gets in, though.)

Natural isn't always synonymous with benefits, however. "If you have sensitive skin, acne, or rosacea, be wary of products with a lot of plant and flower extracts," says Brandith Irwin, M.D., a Seattle dermatologist and author of The Surgery-Free Makeover. They may contain various enzymes, proteins, and other compounds that increase the chance of an allergic reaction on the skin. Plant oils, which are made up of relatively simple fatty acids, are gentler on skin. Try Yes to Carrots C Me Shine Lip Gloss ($6.49, Walgreens) with castor-seed oil, or SukiColor Rich Pigment Mascara ($34, sukicolor.com) with sunflower-seed oil.

Irritants may be lurking in mineral makeup, too. That's because not all brands are pure minerals. A quick scan of the ingredients may turn up parabens and other fillers. One without them: Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-Free 100% Mineral BronzeBrightener ($14, drugstores). Also be skeptical of claims made about natural antioxidants. Manufacturers may not use the most effective form. Just because vitamin C, for example, fights free radicals doesn't mean orange juice or orange extract in your product will. "It won't hurt you, but don't pay extra for it," Dr. Irwin says.

Bottom line: You'll get the best green bang for your buck if the top half of the ingredient list contains naturals. But don't buy into the good-for-you claims if you also find a laundry list of potential irritants.

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