Runway the "Real" Way: 3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2012

1. Knot it.

"Phillip's clothing always has a very structural influence," explains Kérastase hairstylist Odile Gilbert. "But this collection was inspired by the wind and kites, so he wanted the hair to have a windswept quality." To translate this directive to the models' manes, Gilbert divided hair into two equally-sized sections and twisted the halves until taut. Then, she (literally) knotted the "ropes" at the nape of the neck, leaving any loose ends hanging "like the tail of a kite."

2. Wisp of a thing.

"Instead of letting frizz fly free, I took small sections of hair around the face and pinned them to the back of the head," continues Gilbert. Her secret for smoothing split ends? "I prepped strands with a dual conditioner-styling cream," she adds. While the Kérastase product won't be out for months, DIYer's can coat tresses with a leave-in conditioner and use bobby pins to lock the intentional flyaways in place.

3. Contrast your contours.

"While the inspiration for the collection centers around the conflicting freedom and fragility of kites, the makeup plays off of this by incorporating elements of sophisticated youth with everyone's inner rebel," says Nars makeup artist Francelle. To execute this sweet-and-steely look, Francelle started with dewy skin, enhanced with Nars Pore Refining Primer. On the lips, she patted concealer and then dabbed Nars Gaiety Blush with her finger to pump up the pout. "This shade isn't out until spring, though," warns the lead artist. "So, try Desire for now."

4. Line your lids.

To recreate the eyes: "Concentrate dark and light metallic shades in the creases and corners of your eyes, leaving the hallows of your lids totally bare," advises Francelle. "This brings out your natural skin tone." She also recommends lining the inner rim of the lower lashes with an off-white pencil to neutralize redness. "Lastly, coat lashes with a lot of mascara—I used six applications for this look," Francelle notes. "Your end result should be a face with traces of hard metal, romantic softness, and dewy skin."

5. See-through tips.

"There's a pink raincoat in Phillip's collection that inspired this color," explains CND nail tech, Andy. "Whereas last season's nail trend featured nude shades that look like extensions of the fingers, this barely-there pink shade mimics the color of the nail bed." To make your own see-through lacquers, add a few drops of your favorite pigment (CND Raspberry Parfait was used here) into a bottle of top coat and mix thoroughly. "Just remember, the more polish you add to your clear formula, the more opaque your tips will turn out!" exclaims the nail guru.

More from Fashion Week:

Michael Kors's Safari Stunners

Vera Wang Goes Nude

Center Parts and Grace Kelly Glam at Zac Posen

Derek Lam's City Slicker Hair

Carolina Herrera's Luxe Loops

Peter Som's Punky Highlights

Rag & Bone's DIY Freckles

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